In 1605 Cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew of Pope Paul V and Bernini's great patron, turned a vineyard on the edge of Rome into the most lavish private garden built in the city since antiquity.
The park
The gardens were first laid out in the formal French style with pavilions for entertaining guests. In the 19th century they were remodelled as a more relaxed English landscape garden. In 1903 the city bought the estate and opened it to everyone, and today it's where Romans come to run, cycle, picnic and slow down.
- The lake (Giardino del Lago): rent a rowing boat and paddle past the little Temple of Aesculapius.
- The Pincio terrace: the classic view over Piazza del Popolo and the domes of Rome, best at sunset. From here you can walk down to the piazza and on to the Spanish Steps.
- Bikes and rickshaws: rental stands near the main paths make it easy to cover the whole park.
- Bioparco: Rome's zoo is inside the park, which is a good half-day with children.
The Borghese Gallery (Galleria Borghese)
The cardinal's summer villa holds his collection, and much of it is still in the rooms it was made for. It's small enough to see properly in two hours and good enough to make art-lovers weep. Even people who "don't do museums" tend to leave amazed.
Don't miss
- Bernini's sculptures: Apollo and Daphne, The Rape of Proserpina and his David, carved when Bernini was in his early twenties.
- Caravaggio: six paintings, including Boy with a Basket of Fruit and David with the Head of Goliath.
- Canova's Pauline Bonaparte: Napoleon's sister, reclining as Venus.
- Raphael's Deposition and Titian's Sacred and Profane Love in the upstairs picture gallery.
How visits work
Entry is by timed reservation only, in slots of about two hours, and numbers are strictly limited. Book as early as you can, especially for weekends and from spring to autumn. Arrive 30 minutes early to collect your tickets and leave bags in the cloakroom. The gallery is closed on Mondays.
Two myths to read before you go
Proserpina (Persephone)
Proserpina was picking flowers with her friends when Pluto, god of the underworld, burst out of the earth and carried her off to be his queen. Her mother Ceres, goddess of the harvest, searched the world in grief and let the crops die. In the end Jupiter struck a deal: Proserpina would spend part of each year below and part above. According to the myth, that's why the earth is bare in autumn and winter and blooms again in spring. Look at Pluto's fingers pressing into her thigh: it's marble.
Apollo and Daphne
Daphne, a river nymph who loved the woods and wanted no husband, was chased by Apollo, who had fallen in love with her. As he was about to catch her she cried to her father for help, and she was turned into a laurel tree. Bernini catches the exact moment: bark climbing her legs, leaves sprouting from her fingers, Apollo's hand touching a trunk.
Quick answers
Do I need to book the Borghese Gallery?
Yes. Entry is by timed reservation only, in slots of about two hours, and weekends and high season sell out weeks ahead.
Is Villa Borghese park free?
Yes, the park is free and open daily. You pay only for the Borghese Gallery, the zoo, boat hire and bike rental.
How do I get to Villa Borghese from Termini?
Take Metro A to Spagna and walk up past the Spanish Steps to the Pincio, or take a taxi straight to the Gallery, about 15 minutes.